Rwandan culture and traditions: Intore, Amasunzu, Imigongo and Umuganda

Tradition in Rwanda is not kept behind glass. It is danced at weddings and lodges, woven into baskets sold in every market, and practised by the whole country on the last Saturday of the month. Here is a short guide to the customs you will meet on the road, and where to see them best.

Intore dance

The Intore — "the chosen ones" — were the warriors of the royal court, trained in combat and in the extraordinary high-jumping dance that is now Rwanda's signature performance. Dancers in grass wigs and beaded sashes leap, spin and stamp to drums, spears in hand. You can see it at Kigali Cultural Village, at the Ethnographic Museum in Huye, at the Gorilla Guardians village in Musanze and at many lodges.

Amasunzu

Amasunzu is the crescent-shaped hairstyle once worn by men and unmarried women of standing, shaved and sculpted into ridges that signalled nobility and bravery. It returned to the world's attention when Lupita Nyong'o wore a version of it on the red carpet in 2018. The King's Palace at Nyanza and the Ethnographic Museum both tell its story.

Baskets, pottery and weaving

The coiled "peace basket" (agaseke), with its pointed lid, is Rwanda's best-known craft — traditionally used to store grain and medicine, given at weddings and as a welcome. Pottery is one of the oldest crafts in the country, still made in fine local clay by Batwa artisans. Cooperatives in Kigali and along the road south sell both, and the Cultural Village lets you try.

Imigongo

Imigongo is the geometric cow-dung art of Nyakarambi, near the Tanzanian border, painted in bold black, white and ochre. Once a decoration for the walls of homes, it is now made by cooperatives and sold in craft markets across the country. The patterns stand for strength, unity and continuity.

Umuganda

On the last Saturday of every month, Rwanda stops for Umuganda — "coming together for a common purpose". Shops close, traffic disappears until midday, and neighbourhoods clean streets, plant trees and build for those in need. Visitors are welcome to join; ask your lodge or your driver-guide. It is one reason the country is as clean as it is, and it changes how you plan a Saturday morning drive.

Where to see it

Kigali Cultural Village for an afternoon in the city; the King's Palace at Nyanza and the Ethnographic Museum in Huye for the full story on the road south; craft markets at Caplaki and Kimironko in Kigali for baskets and Imigongo. All are on tarmac and any car in the fleet will get you there.