Gorilla trekking in Volcanoes: what a day really looks like

The day starts early. You are at the Kinigi park headquarters by 7am for the briefing, tea and the allocation of your gorilla family; the drive from Musanze takes twenty minutes, from Kigali closer to three hours, which is why we always suggest a night nearby.

The briefing and the allocation

Rangers group visitors by fitness and preference into parties of up to eight, each assigned to one habituated family. Some families live low on the slopes, forty minutes from the road; others are three or four hours up through bamboo and nettles. Say honestly how far you would like to walk.

The trek

You drive from headquarters to the trailhead — murram, and muddy in the rains, which is where the 4x4 pays for itself — and set off with a ranger, trackers ahead by radio, and porters if you want them (worth it, and it supports the community). The walk climbs through farmland into the forest. When the trackers find the family, you leave bags and sticks, and approach.

The hour

You have one hour with the gorillas at a respectful distance, watching them feed, play and doze. It is quiet, close and unhurried. Cameras are fine; flash is not.

Back down, and the afternoon

Most people are back at the car by early afternoon. Lunch at the lodge, then an easy afternoon — the twin lakes, a coffee washing station, or nothing at all. The day after is the time for golden monkeys or a volcano hike.

What to bring

Proper walking boots, long trousers tucked into socks, gardening gloves for the stinging nettles, a light waterproof and a litre of water. Gaiters in the rains. Leave the permit and the early start to us.